How Malta Smells After One Year
I never know when it will come; it catches me by surprise. It’s the smell of limestone dust which all of Malta is made of. I don’t know if it’s a good smell or a bad one, but I love it.
I don’t know if all expats feel this way, but I feel like I’m the equivalent of an infant who just had her first birthday. More happens in the first year of being an expat than at any other time. At least, that’s what I think now.
Since moving here one year ago this October, I’ve made it through one Maltese winter, moved in with Mr. S. fulltime in an old Maltese townhouse (would anyone like to start a support group for people living with a German partner?), lived through the CELTA training course, got a job teaching English, swam for the first time in 45 years, drank my first cup of coffee to stay awake while teaching afternoon classes, made it through one Maltese summer and met many people—some who I like and others who I ended up drifted apart from. And through everyone of these days, I’ve missed my kids back in the US. But I’ve been back to the US twice and they’ve each been out to Malta once. All this in one year.
And you’ve been with me all the way. Thanks.
So after this one full year, what do I think of Malta?
The Maltese People—I like them. They’re friendly, helpful and affectionate and sincerely interested in you. I really like the teachers at my school. I really like my neighbors. I like the Maltese except when they’re behind the wheel. They are extremely dangerous drivers and experience terrible road rage. While some drivers do allow you—as a pedestrian—to cross the street, most drivers will run you over. I’ve had near misses everyday crossing the streets, and I’m constantly being sworn at by drivers who get mad if they almost kill you. I even got pushed by a car; the driver was backing up without looking and pushed me about two feet. Luckily he was backing up slowly.
But, yes, I like the Maltese people. And they smell good.
Next time: The Mediterranean Life

Hello Frank, welcome to my blog and Malta when you come here. Unfortunately, I cant answer specific questions like these. I recommend you to the page on my blog about Official Sites of Importance:
http://an-american-in-malta.typepad.com/malta/official_sites_of_importance.html
and suggest you contact some of those places. Best of luck--Ilene (Sennuwy)
Posted by: Sennuwy (an ancient Egyptian name) | December 21, 2009 at 02:04 PM
Greetings Sennuwy,
I'm a frist timer on this blog. Discovered it while searching for information on US Citizens moving to Malta for a year, or two.
Me: 58 y.o. retired Firefighter from Boston, Ma., retired with pension in 2000, moved to Los Angeles, began a new career in the film industry as a writer & painter, now seeking location like Malta to spend time writing & painting full-time.
Such a broad subject to cover... but can you offer any advice for a newbie like myself. First off, let me mention that I have spent lots of time in & around Europe--have namy friends in Paris, also have an old neighbor living in Sicily.
So... I'll attempt to be brief for now.
1. Can someone like me live on Malta for a year? If so, what restrictions are there? What should I do first to start the process? I am already in contact with Simon Estates on the Island for rental opportunities in St. Julians, San Gwann, Gzira and Sliema.
2. Can I live there long-term (year maybe two) without having to apply for residency/citizenship? It makes more sense for me to live there this long to discover if I like it.
3. Is there a web-site you can recommend where I can search for further information regarding long-term visits?
4. How's the art scene on Malta? Any web-sites I can visit to review? I have been reading "Day By Day (Malta & Gonzo" for reference. Just love what I'm seeing.
5. After considering these questions, what course of action would you recommend?
I want to thank you for reading all of the above. Any help is greatly appreciated.
Happy Holidays to you and loved ones...
-frank gaide
Posted by: frank gaide | December 21, 2009 at 11:32 AM
Hi Andie--thanks so much for your good wishes. Very sorry to hear about your bad experiences in Malta. I hope that some people will read your words and realize the kind of pain they may have caused you and others in your situation. But think of this: if America can elect an biracial president, then anything can happen--Ilene
Posted by: Sennuwy (an ancient Egyptian name) | November 19, 2009 at 01:47 PM
Ilene, it's wonderful for you, your one yeat in Malta you have found the people nice and wonderful. I really wish I could say that about the Maltese people. Sometimes I get a warm welcome and sometimes I get treated like I am living in the 1960's deep south America.
Although some of my neighbors have been nice, some have been very rude and continue to be rude even after they found out I am NOT an immigrant. People say really nasty things in Maltese and they have no idea that I understand their harsh words. My wish is for the Maltese people to consider that, judgment of a person based on skin color really say’s a lot about the heart and mind of the person passing judgment. My wish is that the people of Malta will understand that NOT every person of color wants’ to live in this country permanently, some are professionals here for a short period, some are students, some are yes immigrants in transit, and yes some want to stay because they have loved ones here. Some day things will change.
Happy Birthday for you ...hope you continue to have a wonderful experience.
Andie
Posted by: andie | November 15, 2009 at 12:43 PM
Hi Mike, you've got a way with words. Thanks and well said--Ilene
Posted by: Sennuwy (an ancient Egyptian name) | November 01, 2009 at 11:19 AM
I was there to witness the chicken getting into the water. However, after a few tears, white knuckles clutching the ladder and a whole lot of clucking, she did finally be a brave girl and take the plunge. After that, we had a hard time coaxing her out. Well done girl.
Posted by: Mike Owen | November 01, 2009 at 11:11 AM
Hi Steve--the same to you and Gill--Happy First Year. Yes, the complaining will start now and it's warranted--because it is direct discrimination against NON-EU people residing in Malta. And, no, it's not the same as what the US would do. This is even worse. But that's not the point. Are you ready????
Posted by: Sennuwy (an ancient Egyptian name) | November 01, 2009 at 07:48 AM
Happy first birthday Ilene, and welcome to year two. Roll on the Moaning And Groaning.
Posted by: Steve H. | November 01, 2009 at 07:23 AM
Hi Katie--youre so sweet. I hope you dont mind a lot of complaining--because thats coming up, as well! xxx Ilene
Posted by: Sennuwy (an ancient Egyptian name) | October 31, 2009 at 04:29 PM
Congrats to one year in Malta!
You are totally inspiring, I have loved all of your stories along the way...the serious, the touching and the downright hilarious!
I love hearing of your adventures and can't wait to see what the future holds.
Cheers!
Katie (Maltese Kat)
Posted by: Katie | October 31, 2009 at 03:58 PM
Hi Dee--Thanks a lot. Actually, Mr. S. is away in England right now, visiting his Mum. So I had some chocolate by myself as usual ;-)
Posted by: Sennuwy (an ancient Egyptian name) | October 30, 2009 at 04:56 PM
One Whole Year...Congratulations! What did you and Mr.S. do to celebrate your anniversary? Now, the smell I didn't notice, but will be sure to pay attention on the next visit.
Posted by: Dee Owen | October 30, 2009 at 03:30 PM
Hi Edward, thanks a lot. Thats really funny that you like the smell of Malta, too. And, yes, I notice it when I come off the plane. And Egypt has its own incredible smell. Im curious: in what situations do your fellow Maltese need to be more self-confident?--Ilene
Posted by: Sennuwy (an ancient Egyptian name) | October 29, 2009 at 09:43 AM
:)
Congratulations! You’ve done alot in a year!
I also like the smell of Malta. I enjoy it for a few moments when I disembark a plane… and then it’s gone; “olfactory fatigue” I suppose :)
I also like my fellow Maltese people, but I’d like them more if they exhibited greater self-confidence.
Posted by: Edward | October 29, 2009 at 08:17 AM